It is so much
later now, now that I’m in a place I can share a few of these thoughts. As it
stands, however, so many hours before and on a incredibly misty (even mystic)
Monday morning, I’m on a bullet train, traveling at approximately 200 miles per
hour, on my way towards a train station in Hiroshima. I’ll only look out a
window once we get there, as I do so much now, but we’ll only stop for a second
and take pause, eventually landing in Kyoto, where there’s a lot of work to do
yet. Left to my own devices, I’d wander towards a moss temple I only just
learned about and taste some okonomiyaki again,
as it is that region’s specialty. Instead, I’ll meet a couple of people for the
first time, learn their business stories, help direct some photo shoots and be
on my way, on towards another fantastic, new destination. That’s all in the
near future; a day already planned and laid out, like some kind of new
outfit.
I see postcards
to my left, not the kind that would ever be affixed with a stamp and a “Wish
you were here!” on their backs, but moments of scenery captured for seconds at
a time, like a flipbook faking animation. There is so much rich green and
watery rice fields and fog sitting atop mountains of trees just outside, just
over there. There are heavily shingled roofs that turn up at their corners, a
style I’ve not seen repeated anywhere else in the world. We’re moving too fast
for the streets below to reveal even one person walking them, a kind of real
life global “Where’s Waldo?” game in the making. Kenji pipes up and says we
even went under the ocean at one point and I try to take that in. At about the
same time, it occurs to me these seats don’t even come with seatbelts, as if to
say, you know, if we did crash, we wouldn’t want to lead you to believe we
could prevent what would come next. Such honesty. And yet, I’m uncommonly
relaxed. I trust we’ll stay this new course and arrive at our destination,
unscathed.
In the days that
preceded, I’ve learned restaurants aren’t allowed to serve bad food in Japan,
no matter what the meal, and that my stomach celebrates new flavors and
discovered levels of freshness with every new restaurant, no matter how small.
I sleep for 4 and 5 hours at a time, my body still trying to manage a 12-hour
time difference and seem to be okay with the shift. As a whole, this country is
so polite, it’s harder to hide a smile than it is to burst out with one when
you’re being handed a receipt with both hands. There’s a lot to learn from
those manners and mannerisms alone. I’ve learned how to say thank you and
silent bows and smiles are as well received as they are easily given. My legs
hurt from walking so much, especially my calves and just inside my knees. I
feel like I’ve been here a long while, but there’s so much more to see and do
and take part in. It’s all some kind of fast dream.
I like reliving
the greatest parts. Here’s one, for example:
Yesterday
afternoon, I heard a small girl in a hallway, singing words I couldn’t
understand but was drawn to. She sang them loudly and eventually locked eyes with
me, continuing to sing as she was steered elsewhere by her mother. She was so
precious, I suddenly wanted to father a child not unlike her, if only to
experience all my waking hours with a rare beauty I could hardly fathom. That
doesn’t happen much. It was a surprise.
In my head, I
revisit one of those old notions (one that has never entirely gone away, it
would seem), the scenario that has me living as some new kind of hermit. In
this version, I’m a man nobody knows in a land so far from my own, a face
amongst a whole vast sea of others. I look a little different, if not a lot.
I’m that square peg. Nobody knows me enough to use my first or last name. I
feel like Japan could be the place for all of that to happen, one that, a place
that, while overwhelmingly accepting, doesn’t really go out of its way to
accept me.
A couple of days
ago, Kenji offered, “I could see you living here,” and I believe it in a
second. There’s no need to try and convince me. Instead, I give in towards
marveling at the possibility.
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